Abstract
Cockatiels have been kept and raised in America for about 75 years. In all these years little has been written from a practical standpoint of Cockatiel breeding. Most breeders still colony breed, "for a money crop" to supplement their aviary expense. If the Cockatiel is to progress, and new mutations developed, a change must be made. This will not be an easy change for those accustomed to breeding six pair of birds in a six by six foot cage.
It is not my intention to discredit colony breeding, as long as ample space is provided. The purpose is to encourage a controlled breeding of our birds. Don't be naive in thinking a male Cockatiel will not mate with two or more hens in his flight.
We raise Cockatiels throughout the year. This is accomplished by a climate controlled aviary. The summer temperature is maintained between 75 and 80 degrees. Winter temperature is maintained between 65 and 70 degrees. Humidity is kept at 50 percent or above. High humidity is maintained with a humidifier or in a small aviary a vaporizer. The lighting system is on an automatic timer. Lights are on 15 hours a day, 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. The type fluorescent bulb used is Duro-Test VitaLife. We use a four foot bulb to light 40 square feet of floor space. Twenty-five watt night lights are also located throughout the aviary.
The construction of an aviary will vary in different geographical locations. It should be well insulated, dry and draft free. You should have ample walk space and work area. In general it should be well arranged, so as not to make your birds a chore.
All of our flights are 8 feet high. The breeding flights are 3 feet wide and 10 to 12 feet long. Each breeding flight accommodates one breeding pair. The aviary floor is concrete slab, covered with 2 inches of clean, fine gravel. The gravel serves a dual purpose, it retains humidity and is easily cleaned. I use a common lawn rake to rake the gravel once a week. Twice a year the gravel is removed, concrete floors disinfected, and gravel replaced.
It may seem like a waste of space to devote 30 or 40 square feet of floor space to one pair of breeding Cockatiels, but our birds would never admit it. If you give ample space to your birds, the end results will amaze you. In large uncrowded flights the birds breed more freely, the chicks come off quicker, and there is no feather picking. It is truly a way to enjoy your birds.
In addition to the breeding flights, we also have three flights 4 feet wide by 12 feet long. One is for youngsters and one each for resting hens and cocks. I would suggest the hen and cock flights be as far apart as possible. This will keep the love affairs to a minimum, and allow you to remate pairs of your choice more easily. Contrary to belief COCKA TIELS DO NOT MATE FOR LIFE. Mate the birds to your advantage.
In the breeding flights hang two nest boxes for each pair of birds. Number the boxes so information can be recorded on your files. The nest box should be hung as high as possible, allowing 12 to 14 inches from the top of the box to the ceiling. The type box used is 12 inches square and 14 inches high,· with a removable top. The entrance hole is 3 inches in diameter offset from the center, two inches from the top of the box. To the floor of the nest box add 2 or 3 inches of pine shavings.
The day you hang the nest box start a routine schedule of nest inspection. LOOK IN THE BOX' Move the nesting material around, don't be afraid to touch the nest. You should inspect at least once a day, and at the same time each day. We check all nests at 7:30 a.m. and 7:30 p.m., and again just before lights out if there is any doubt. It is very important you condition your birds to this routine inspection, otherwise you will never know what goes on in the nest.
Mate only those birds in top condition.
If the breeders are in a molt, or thin, do not put them up. A hen in condition will usually lay in 2 weeks. You can expect the first egg 7 to 10 days from the initial mating. A Cockatiel hen can lay a fertile egg three days after mating, however this is the exception. When the first egg is layed, number it with a fine felt tip pen. Mark each egg as it is layed and record the information. Candling may begin with the third egg. When you are sure an egg is infertile, remove it from the nest.
A fertile egg hatches in 17 to 20 days, depending on how tight the hen sets. Chicks fledge at about 35 days, the cock will continue to feed for two more weeks. When you are sure the fledglings are eating on their own, move them to the baby flight.