A NEW HYBRID APPROACH IN THE CALIBRATION OF BOUSSINESQ-TYPE WAVE BREAKING MODELS

Joaquín Moris, Patricio Catalán, Rodrigo Cienfuegos

Abstract


Wave breaking is one of the main forcing mechanisms in coastal hydrodynamics, driving mean water levels and currents. Understanding its behavior is key in the goal of improving our comprehension of coastal morphodynamics variations. One way to improve our understanding is through the use of numerical models, such as phase-resolving numerical models based on the Boussinesq equations (Kirby, 2016), which are modified to include breaking by the inclusion of a breaking criteria and a dissipation mechanism. Since there is not a universal law capable of characterizing the wave breaking, the existing models must be calibrated. Traditionally, this is done by adjusting wave height profiles and other free surface statistical parameters without explicitly considering the time-space location and duration of the breaking process. Consequently, it is possible to calibrate a model that accurately represents wave elevation statistics parameters, such as wave height and wave set-up; however, it might not necessarily represent the breaking location-duration and therefore, the forcing.

Full Text:

PDF

References


Catalán, Haller (2008): Remote sensing of breaking wave phase speeds with application to nonlinear depth inversion, Coastal Engineering, vol. 55, pp 93–111.

Cienfuegos et al. (2010): Wave-breaking model for Boussinesq-type equations including roller effects in the mass conservation equation, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, vol. 136(1), pp 10–26

D’Alessandro, Tomasicchio (2008): The BCI criterion for the initiation of breaking process in Boussinesq-type equations wave models, Coastal Engineering, vol. 55(12), pp 1174–1184

Kirby (2016): Boussinesq Models and Their Application to Coastal Processes across a Wide Range of Scales, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, vol. 142(6).

Okamoto, Basco (2006): The Relative Trough Froude Number for initiation of wave breaking: Theory, experiments and numerical model confirmation, Coastal Engineering Coastal Engineering, vol. 53(8), pp 675–690.




DOI: https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.waves.24