Dominic van der A, Joep van der Zanden, Ming Li, James Cooper, Simon Clark, Bjarke Eltard-Larsen, Stefan Carstensen, David Fuhrman, Carmelo Petrotta, Carla Faraci, Pietro Scandura, Iván Cáceres, Stuart McLelland, Guillaume Fromant, David Hurther, Gerben Ruessink, Joost Brinkkemper


Multiphase CFD models recently have proved promising in modelling cross‐shore sediment transport and morphodynamics (Jacobsen et al 2014). However, modelling breaking wave turbulence remains a major challenge for these models, because it occurs at very different spatial and temporal length scales and involves the interaction between surface generated turbulence and turbulence generated in the bottom boundary layer. To an extent these challenges arise from a lack of appropriate experimental data, since most previous experimental studies involved breaking waves at small-scale, and have not permitted investigation of the turbulent boundary layer processes. Moreover, most existing studies have concentrated on regular waves, thereby excluding the flow and turbulence dynamics occurring at wave group time-scales under irregular waves within the surf zone. These limitations motivated a new experiment in the large-scale CIEM wave flume in Barcelona involving regular and irregular waves. The experiment was conducted in May-July 2017 within the HYDRALAB+ Transnational Access project HYBRID.

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Jacobsen, Fredsøe & Jensen (2014). Formation and development of a breaker bar under regular waves. Part 1: Model description and hydrodynamics. Coastal Engineering, ELSEVIER, vol 88, pp 182-193

van der A, van der Zanden, O'Donoghue, Hurther, Cáceres, McLelland & Ribberink (2017). Large-scale laboratory study of breaking wave hydrodynamics over a fixed bar. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, WILEY, vol. 122(4), pp. 3287-3310.

DOI: https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.waves.90