LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS ABOUT BED PATTERNS IN THE SHOALING REGION UNDER REGULAR WAVES AND REFLECTING CONDITIONS
ICCE 2016 Cover Image
PDF

Keywords

ripples
sandbars
reflection
sloping beaches

How to Cite

Cobos, M., Clavero, M., Longo, S., Baquerizo, A., & Losada, M. A. (2017). LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS ABOUT BED PATTERNS IN THE SHOALING REGION UNDER REGULAR WAVES AND REFLECTING CONDITIONS. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(35), sediment.25. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.sediment.25

Abstract

This research is an experimental study of ripple dynamic for regular waves propagating on horizontal and sloping beds in mid- and high-reflective conditions. Small-scale laboratory experiments were carried out on shoaling region (with non breaking waves) and sediment transport in bedload regime. Our experiments showed the key role that plays the reflection in ripple development. The spatial modulation of the free surface elevation due to reflection created sandbars. Ripples grew up in the region where sandbars were appearing. These patterns were gradually reproduced from breakwater to offshore. The incidence of sandbar created a bi-modal structure of ripple geometry. The larger ripples appeared in the crest of sandbars whereas smaller ripples were found in the troughs. Furthermore, it was found that the evolution of ripples at these two locations can be explained by means of different growth mechanisms. Finally, at equilibrium stages, ripple height converges reaching the same height along the sandbar while ripple length and steepness remains almost constant.
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.sediment.25
PDF

References

J. R. Allen. Sedimentary Structures Their Character and Physical Basis Volume I, volume 30, Part A of

Developments in Sedimentology. Elsevier, 1982.

A. Ávila, A. Baquerizo, and M. A. Losada. Edge wave scattering by coastal structures on arbitrary

bathymetry. Journal of Coastal Research, pages 1536-1544, 2008.

S. Baglio, C. Faraci, and E. Foti. Structured light approach for measuring sea ripple characteris-

tics. In OCEANS '98 Conference Proceedings, volume 1, pages 449-453 vol.1, Sep 1998. doi:

1109/OCEANS.1998.725787.

R. A. Bagnold and G. Taylor. Motion of waves in shallow water. interaction between waves and sand bot-

toms. Proceedings of the Royal Society of London A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences,

(1008):1-18, 1946. doi: 10.1098/rspa.1946.0062.

A. Baquerizo. Wave Reflection on Beaches: Methods of Assessment and. Forecasting. PhD thesis, Ph.D.

Thesis, University of Cantabria (in Spanish), 1995.

A. Baquerizo, M. Losada, J. Smith, and N. Kobayashi. Cross-shore variation of wave reflection from

beaches. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 123(5):274-279, 1997. doi:

1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1997)123:5(274).

A. Baquerizo, M. Losada, and I. Losada. Edge wave scattering by a coastal structure. Fluid Dynamics

Research, 31(4):275-287, 2002.

A. Baquerizo, M. Ortega-SÁnchez, and M. A. Losada. Mass transport and related bedforms induced by

phase-locked edgewaves in a groin. In Coastal Engineering 2004: (In 4 Volumes), pages 2694-2702.

World Scientific, 2005.

M. I. Benedicto, M. Losada, and I. Sánchez-Arévalo. Dependence of the stability of mound breakwaters on

the reflection process. In Coastal Structures 2003, pages 91-99. 2004.

T. G. Carter, P. L. Liu, and C. C. Mei. Mass-transport by waves and offshore sand bedforms. Journal of the

Waterways Harbors and Coastal Engineering Division-ASCE, 99(WW2):165-184, 1973.

M. Cobos, C. L., L. S., B. A., and L. M.A. Ripple and sandbar dynamics under mid-reflecting conditions

with a porous vertical breakwater. Submitted to Coastal Engineering, 2016.

J. P. Davis, D. J. Walker, M. Townsend, and I. R. Young. Wave-formed sediment ripples: Transient analysis

of ripple spectral development. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 109(C7), 2004. ISSN 2156-

doi: 10.1029/2004JC002307. C07020.

J. R. Dingler. Wave formed ripples in nearshore sands. Ph.D. thesis, University of California, San Diego,

J. S. Doucette and T. O'Donoghue. Response of sand ripples to change in oscillatory flow. Sedimentology,

(3):581-596, 2006. ISSN 1365-3091. doi: 10.1111/j.1365-3091.2006.00774.x.

C. Faraci and E. Foti. Geometry, migration and evolution of small-scale bedforms generated by reg-

ular and irregular waves. Coastal Engineering, 47(1):35 - 52, 2002. ISSN 0378-3839. doi:

1016/S0378-3839(02)00097-2.

K. Gíslason, J. Fredsøe, R. Deigaard, and B. M. Sumer. Flow under standing waves: Part 1. shear stress

distribution, energy flux and steady streaming. Coastal Engineering, 56(3):341 - 362, 2009. ISSN

-3839. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.11.001.

D. L. Inman. Wave-generated ripples in nearshore sands. Beach Erosion Board, Tech. Memo 100. U. S.

Army Corps of Engineers, 1957.

S. C. Jain and J. F. Kennedy. The spectral evolution of sedimentary bed forms. Journal of Fluid Mechanics,

(02):301-314, 1974.

B. J. Landry. Sand bed morphodynamics under water waves and vegetated conditions. PhD thesis, Univer-

sity of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, 2011.

M. A. Losada and J. M. Desiré. Incipient motion on a horizontal granular bed in non-breaking water waves.

Coastal Engineering, 9(4):357 - 370, 1985. ISSN 0378-3839. doi: 10.1016/0378-3839(85)90017-1.

M. Manohar. Mechanics of bottom sediment movement due to wave action. Dayton : Armed Services

Technical Information Agency, 1955.

R. C. Messaros and M. S. Bruno. Laboratory investigation of bedform geometry under regular and ir-

regular surface gravity waves. Journal of Coastal Research, pages 94-103, 2011. doi: 10.2112/

JCOASTRES-D-09-00062.1.

G. Mogridge and J. Kamphuis. Experiments on bed form generation by wave action. Proceedings Coastal

Engineering 1972, pages 1123-1142, 1972. doi: 10.1061/9780872620490.063.

P. Nielsen. Dynamics and geometry of wave-generated ripples. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans,

(C7):6467-6472, 1981. ISSN 2156-2202. doi: 10.1029/JC086iC07p06467.

P. Nielsen. Coastal Bottom Boundary Layers and Sediment Transport. Advanced series on ocean Engineer-

ing. World Scientific, 1992. ISBN 9789810204730.

E. Sánchez-Badorrey, M. Losada, and J. Rodero. Sediment transport patterns in front of reflective structures

under wind wave-dominated conditions. Coastal Engineering, 55(7):685-700, 2008.

D. Smith and J. F. Sleath. Transient ripples in oscillatory flows. Continental Shelf Research, 25(4):485 -

, 2005. ISSN 0278-4343. doi: 10.1016/j.csr.2004.10.012.

P. Traykovski. Observations of wave orbital scale ripples and a nonequilibrium time-dependent model. Jour-

nal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 112(C6), 2007. ISSN 2156-2202. doi: 10.1029/2006JC003811.

C06026.

P. L. Wiberg and C. K. Harris. Ripple geometry in wave-dominated environments. Journal of Geophysical

Research: Oceans, 99(C1):775-789, 1994. ISSN 2156-2202. doi: 10.1029/93JC02726.

Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.