PARAMETERIZATION OF EVOLUTION OF BIPHASE DURING NONLINEAR TRANSFORMATION OF WAVES IN COASTAL ZONE

Yana Saprykina, Sergey Kuznetsov, Margarita Shtremel

Abstract


Based on experimental data, the problem of parametrization of spatial variation of the phase shift (biphase) between the first and second nonlinear harmonics of wave motion during wave transformation over sloping bottom in the coastal zone is discussed. It is revealed that the biphase values vary in the range [–π/2, π/2]. Biphase variations rigorously follow fluctuations in amplitudes of the first and second harmonics and the periodicity of energy exchange between them. The empirical relation applied in modern practice to calculate the biphase, which depends on the Ursell number, is incorrect for calculating the biphase for wave evolution in the coastal zone, because it does not take into account periodic energy exchange between the nonlinear harmonics. The new approximations of the biphase values for typical scenarios of wave transformations are suggested. It was demonstrated that the biphase of breaking waves defines breaking index and breaking type.

Keywords


nonlinear wave transformatio;, nonlinear harmonics; biphase; wave breaking; coastal zone

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References


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DOI: https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.waves.3