Gerbrant Ph. van Vledder, Marcel Zijlema


The determination of wave conditions in partly sheltered areas is a challenging task for coastal engineers. Knowledge about these conditions is important for the design of coastal structures, the planning and operation of ports. Numerical models play an important role in the assessment of these conditions. Various types of models have been proposed of which phase averaged and phase resolving models are the most widely used. Here, we present the non-hydrostatic phase resolving SWASH model as a tool to determine wave conditions in partly sheltered areas. Examples are shown of wave diffraction behind a semi-infinite breakwater, and the penetration of waves into the harbour of Limassol, Cyprus. The computational results show good agreement with theoretical and experimental results, indicating that the SWASH model can be used as a tool to determine wave conditions in partly sheltered areas.


wave modelling; wave penetration; SWASH; wave reflection, wave diffraction

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