SANDT-PRO: SEDIMENT TRANSPORT MEASUREMENTS UNDER IRREGULAR AND BREAKING WAVES
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Abstract (small revision)

Keywords

sediment dynamics
sediment transport
breaking waves
surf zone
irregular waves
wave flume experiments
sheet flow

How to Cite

Ribberink, J. S., van der A, D. A., van der Zanden, J., O’Donoghue, T., Hurther, D., Cáceres, I., & Thorne, P. D. (2014). SANDT-PRO: SEDIMENT TRANSPORT MEASUREMENTS UNDER IRREGULAR AND BREAKING WAVES. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(34), sediment.1. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v34.sediment.1

Abstract

First results are presented of a measurement campaign done in the large-scale Barcelona CIEM wave flume from October 2013 to January 2014. The aim of the experiments was to improve our understanding of sediment transport processes in the near-shore region. In particular, we focused on the effects of (1) wave breaking and (2) wave irregularity on net sediment transport rates and sediment transport processes. High-resolution measurements were obtained using advanced instrumentation, deployed from a custom-built measuring frame that could be horizontally and vertically positioned. These instruments provide detailed insights in the vertical distributions of sediment fluxes. Preliminary results from the breaking-wave experiments show an onshore transport of sediment prior to breaking, likely to be dominated by wave-nonlinearity effects, and an offshore sediment flux shoreward of breaking, where the sediment fluxes are undertow-dominated.
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v34.sediment.1
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References

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