ESTIMATION OF MAXIMUM WAVE HEIGHTS BY WAVE SPECTRAL MODEL  AND NONLINEAR WAVE THEORY

Nobuhito Mori; Yusuke Takagi; Koji Kawaguchi; Hiroaki Kashima; Hajime Mase; Tomohiro Yasuda; Hiroaki Shimada

doi:10.9753/icce.v34.waves.54

No. 34 (2014), Waves

No. 34 (2014)

ESTIMATION OF MAXIMUM WAVE HEIGHTS BY WAVE SPECTRAL MODEL AND NONLINEAR WAVE THEORY

Waves

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v34.waves.54

Published 2014-12-02

Nobuhito Mori⁺⁻
Yusuke Takagi⁺⁻
Koji Kawaguchi⁺⁻
Hiroaki Kashima⁺⁻
Hajime Mase⁺⁻
Tomohiro Yasuda⁺⁻
Hiroaki Shimada⁺⁻

Nobuhito Mori

Kyoto University

Yusuke Takagi

Kansai University

Koji Kawaguchi

The Port and Airport Research Institute

Hiroaki Kashima

The Port and Airport Research Institute

Hajime Mase

Kyoto University

Tomohiro Yasuda

Kyoto University

Hiroaki Shimada

Kansai University

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Keywords

extreme wave
spectral wave model
maximum wave height
freak wave

How to Cite

Mori, N., Takagi, Y., Kawaguchi, K., Kashima, H., Mase, H., Yasuda, T., & Shimada, H. (2014). ESTIMATION OF MAXIMUM WAVE HEIGHTS BY WAVE SPECTRAL MODEL AND NONLINEAR WAVE THEORY. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(34), waves.54. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v34.waves.54

Abstract

The strong winter storm crossed from the west to east of the Sea of Japan developing rapidly in early April, 2012. The minimum pressure of the winter storm reached 964 hPa at 21:00 on 3rd April. The storm generated wind waves more than 10 m in the significant wave height and gave severe damages to coastal structures around Japan. This study analyzed observed wave records at 12 stations along the Sea of Japan. A series of numerical analysis was performed to understand the characteristics of extreme wave sea condition. The maximum wave heights were estimated based on the spectral wave model and nonlinear short wave statistical theory. The estimated maximum wave heights by the nonlinear theory show better agreement with the observed peak of maximum wave height than that by the linear theory.

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v34.waves.54

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References

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ESTIMATION OF MAXIMUM WAVE HEIGHTS BY WAVE SPECTRAL MODEL AND NONLINEAR WAVE THEORY

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