Céline Berni, Leandro Suarez, Hervé Michallet, Eric Barthélemy


This study investigates the non-linearities of wave boundary layers in the surf zone. It mainly focuses on the acceleration skewness or asymmetry. Experiments [e.g. Grasso et al., 2011] show that asymmetry influences the sediment transport. Its influence lies in the fact that asymmetry in velocity (acceleration skewness) tends to transform into velocity skewness within the boundary layer. Analysis by Henderson et al. [2004] predicts a linear relation between Skb/Sk∞ and As∞/Sk∞ where Skb is the dimensionless skewness near the bed, Sk∞ the free-stream dimensionless skewness and As∞ the free-stream dimensionless asymmetry. Numerous experiments were carried out in the LEGI wave flume over a mobile bed composed of lightweight sediments. The quasi-random forcing is a repetition of 2 concatenated bichromatic wave packets. Vertical profiles of velocity are measured in the surf zone. A clear linear relation is shown between these two ratios. The experimental results are compared with the numerical results. A linear relation between skewness and asymmetry is also obtained.


non linearities, transformation, k-ω model, mobile bed

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