AbstractMechanisms through which natural rock and coral landforms interact with waves, currents, sediment transport and beach morphology are still poorly understood. Therefore, interactions between sediment transport and calcarenite limestone landforms at Yanchep Lagoon in southwestern Australia were investigated over a cascade of spatial and temporal scales: from single waves, through sea breeze and storm events, to seasonal and inter-annual variability. The hypotheses that were confirmed included: (1) hard landforms with higher elevations relative to sea level are more likely to reduce beach erosion but also to inhibit recovery; and (2) the placement and continuity of landforms in the nearshore can generate current jets, and hence local sediment sources and sinks. These hypotheses were consistently confirmed at all scales, however results show that to fully explain changes at broader scales (such as inter-annual and seasonal changes) an understanding at finer scales (such as during sea breezes, storm event and single waves) was necessary.
Boak, E.H., and I.L. Turner. 2005. Shoreline definition and detection: A review. Journal of Coastal Research, 21(4), 688âˆ'703.http://dx.doi.org/10.2112/03-0071.1
Bosserelle, C., I.D., Haigh, C. Pattiaratchi C, and S. Gallop. 2011. Simulation of Perched Beach Accretion using Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics. Proc of Coasts and Ports, Perth, Australia.
Bosserelle, C., C. Pattiaratchi, and I.D. Haigh. 2012. Inter-annual variability and longer-term changes in the wave climate of Western Australia between 1970 and 2009. Ocean Dynamics, 62, 63âˆ'76.http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s10236-011-0487-3
Dalrymple, R.A., and B.D. Rogers. 2006. Numerical modeling of water waves with the SPH method. Coastal Engineering, 53, 141-147.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2005.10.004
Department of Defence, 2012. Australian National Tide Tables 2012. Australian Hydrographic Publication 11, Canberra.
Eliot, M., and A. Travers. 2011. Dynamics of Scarborough Beach, City of Stirling, Western Australia. Proceedings of Coasts and Ports, 28âˆ'30 September, Perth, Australia.
Fugro, 2009. LADS Mk II Metadata Statement, Western Australia, Two Rocks to Cape Naturaliste, Bathymetry and Seabed Survey, LiDAR - April/May 2009. Adelaide, Australia.
Gallop, S.L., C. Bosserelle, C. Pattiaratchi, and I. Eliot. 2011a. Hydrodynamic and morphological response of a perched beach during sea breeze activity. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue 64, 75-79.
Gallop, S.L., C. Bosserelle, C. Pattiaratchi, and I. Eliot. 2011b. Rock topography causes spatial variation in the wave, current and beach response to sea breeze activity. Marine Geology, 290, 29-40.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2011.10.002
Gallop, S.L., F. Verspecht, and C. Pattiaratchi. 2012. Sea breezes drive currents on the inner continental shelf off southwest Western Australia. Ocean Dynamics, 62, 569-583.http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s10236-011-0515-3
Gallop, S.L., Bosserelle, C., Pattiaratchi, C., Eliot, I., in press. The influence of coastal limestone landforms on storm erosion and recovery of a perched beach. Continental Shelf Research. DOI: 10.1016/j.csr.2012.08.001.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2012.08.001
Gentilli, J. 1972. Australian Climate Patterns. Thomas Nelson Ltd, Sydney.
Haigh, I.D., M. Eliot, and C.B. Pattiaratchi. 2010. Historic changes in storm surges around southwestern Australia. Proceedings of the 15th Physics of Estuaries and Coastal Seas (PECS) conference, 14-17 September, Colombo, Sri Lanka
Haigh, I.D., M. Eliot, and C. Pattiaratchi. 2011a. Global influences of the 18.61 year nodal cycle and 8.85 year cycle of lunar perigee on high tidal levels. Journal of Geophysical Research, 116, C06025, doi:10.1029/2010JC006645http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2010JC006645
Haigh, I.D., M. Eliot, C. Pattiaratchi, and T. Wahl. 2011b. Regional changes in mean sea level around Australia between 1897 and 2008. Proc of Coasts and Ports, 28âˆ'30 Sept, Perth, Australia.
Kempin, G.M. 1953. Beach sand movements at Cottesloe, Western Australia. Journal of the Royal Society of Western Australia, 37, 35-60.
Komar, P.D. 1991. Beach processes and sedimentation. Third Ed. Prentice Hall, New Jersey.
Larson, M., and N.C. Kraus. 1995. Prediction of cross-shore sediment transport at different spatial and temporal scales. Marine Geology, 126, 111-127.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0025-3227(95)00068-A
Lemm, A., B. Hegge, and G. Masselink. 1999. Offshore wave climate, Perth (Western Australia), 1994-96'. Marine and Freshwater Research, 50(2), 92-102.http://dx.doi.org/10.1071/MF98081
Li, F., C. Bicknell, C., and R. Lowry. 2011. Extreme analysis for offshore Perth, 1994-2010. Proceedings of Coasts and Ports, 29-30 September, Perth, Australia.
Masselink, G. 1996. Sea breeze activity and its effect on coastal processes near Perth, Western Australia. Journal of the Royal Society of Western Australia, 79, 199-205.
Masselink, G., and C.B. Pattiaratchi. 2001. Seasonal changes in beach morphology along the sheltered coast of Perth, Western Australia. Marine Geology, 172, 243-263.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0025-3227(00)00128-6
Morton, R.A., and K.K. McKenna. 1999. Analysis and projection of erosion hazard areas in Brazoria and Galveston Counties, Texas. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue 28, 106-120.
Mu-oz-Perez, J.J., and R. Medina. 2010. Comparison of long-, medium- and short-term variations of beach profiles with and without submerged geological control. Coastal Enging., 57, 241-251.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.09.011
Murphy, P. 2011. A study of a shoreline salient formed due to a limestone reef at Yanchep Lagoon, Western Australia. Honors Dissertation, The University of Plymouth, U.K.
Pattiaratchi, C., and M. Eliot. 2009. Sea level variability in south-west Australia: From hours to decades. Proc. of the 31st International Conf. on Coastal Engineering, Hamburg, Germany.http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/9789814277426_0099
Pawlowicz, R, B. Beardsley, and S. Lentz. 2002. Classical tidal harmonic analysis including error estimates in MATLAB using T_Tide. Computers and Geosciences, 28, 929-937.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0098-3004(02)00013-4
Playford, P.E., R.N. Cope, A.E. Cockbain, G.H. Low, D.C. Lowry. 1975. Phanerozoic, in, Geology of Western Australia: Mem. 2, pp. 223-433, Geological Survey of Western Australia, Australia.
Rey, D., B. Rubio, A.M. Bernabeu, and F. Vilas. 2004. Formation, exposure, and evolution of a high-latitude beachrock in the intertidal zone of the Corrubedo complex (Ria de Arousa, Galicia, NW Spain). Sedimentary Geology, 169, 93-105.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.sedgeo.2004.05.001
Semeniuk, V, and D.P. Johnson. 1982. Recent and Pleistocene beach/dune sequences, Western Australia. Sedimentary Geology, 32, 301-328.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0037-0738(82)90042-2
Senechal, N., S. Abadie, E. Gallagher, J. MacMahan, G. Masselink, H. Michallet, A. Reniers, et al. 2011. The ECORS-Truc Vert'08 nearshore field experiment: presentation of a three-dimensional morphologic system in a macro-tidal environment during consecutive extreme storm conditions. Ocean Dynamics, 61(12), 2073-2098.http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s10236-011-0472-x
Steedman, R.K., P.D. Craig. 1983. Wind-driven circulation of Cockburn Sound. Australian Journal of Marine and Freshwater Research 34, 187-212.http://dx.doi.org/10.1071/MF9830187
Tonk, A.M. 2004. Longshore sediment transport driven by sea breezes on low-energy sandy beaches, Southwestern Australia. PhD Thesis. Department of Geography. Loughborough, UK, Loughborough University.
Verspecht, F., and C. Pattiaratchi. 2010. On the significance of wind event frequency for particulate resuspension and light attenuation in coastal waters. Continental Shelf Research, 30, 1971-1982.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2010.09.008