Masumi Serizawa, Takaaki Uda, Shiho Miyahara


The BG model (a three-dimensional model for predicting beach changes based on Bagnold’s concept) was used to simulate the shoreline evolution caused by the high-angle wave instability discussed by Ashton et al. Three calculations were carried out: the wave direction was assumed to be obliquely incident from 60˚ counterclockwise (Case 1) or from the directions of ±60˚ with probabilities of 0.5:0.5 (Case 2) and 0.65:0.35 (Case 3), while determining the incident wave direction from the probability distribution at each step. The three-dimensional development of multiple sand spits and cuspate forelands with rhythmic shapes was successfully explained using the BG model. The results of the previous study conducted by Ashton et al. were reconfirmed and reinforced.


shoreline instability; beach changes; sand spits; cuspate forelands; BG model; wave-sheltering effect; self organization

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