PREDICTION OF DEVELOPMENT OF SAND SPITS AND CUSPATE FORELANDS WITH RHYTHMIC SHAPES CAUSED BY SHORELINE INSTABILITY USING BG MODEL
ICCE 2012 Cover Image
PDF

Supplementary Files

Development of sand spits from infinitesimal perturbation under wave conditions obliquely incident from 60° counterclockwise (Case 1).
Development of cuspate forelands under wave conditions obliquely incident from ±60° with probabilities of 0.5:0.5 (Case 2).
Development of cuspate forelands under wave conditions obliquely incident from ±60° with probabilities of 0.65:0.35 (Case 3).

Keywords

shoreline instability
beach changes
sand spits
cuspate forelands
BG model
wave-sheltering effect
self organization

How to Cite

Serizawa, M., Uda, T., & Miyahara, S. (2012). PREDICTION OF DEVELOPMENT OF SAND SPITS AND CUSPATE FORELANDS WITH RHYTHMIC SHAPES CAUSED BY SHORELINE INSTABILITY USING BG MODEL. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(33), sediment.35. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.sediment.35

Abstract

The BG model (a three-dimensional model for predicting beach changes based on Bagnold's concept) was used to simulate the shoreline evolution caused by the high-angle wave instability discussed by Ashton et al. Three calculations were carried out: the wave direction was assumed to be obliquely incident from 60Ëš counterclockwise (Case 1) or from the directions of ±60Ëš with probabilities of 0.5:0.5 (Case 2) and 0.65:0.35 (Case 3), while determining the incident wave direction from the probability distribution at each step. The three-dimensional development of multiple sand spits and cuspate forelands with rhythmic shapes was successfully explained using the BG model. The results of the previous study conducted by Ashton et al. were reconfirmed and reinforced.
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.sediment.35
PDF

References

Ashton, A., A. B. Murray, and O. Arnault. 2001. Formation of coastline features by large-scale instabilities induced by high angle waves, Nature, Vol. 414, 296-300.http://dx.doi.org/10.1038/35104541

PMid:11713526

Ashton, A., and A. B. Murray. 2006. High-angle wave instability and emergent shoreline shapes: 1. Modeling of sand waves, flying spits, and capes: Jour. Geophys. Res., Vol. 111, F04011, doi: 1. 1029/2005JF000422.

Bagnold, R. A. 1963. Mechanics of marine sedimentation, in The Sea, Hill, M. N., Vol. 3, Wiley, New York, 507-528.

Dally, W. R., R. G. Dean, and R. A. Dalrymple. 1984. A model for breaker decay on beaches, Proc. 19th ICCE, 82-97.

Falqués, A, N. van den Berg, and D. Calvete. 2008. The role of cross-shore profile dynamics on shoreline instability due to high-angle waves, Proc. 31st ICCE, 1826-1838.

Goda, Y. 1985. Random Seas and Design of Maritime Structures. University of Tokyo Press, Tokyo, 323 pp.

Inman, D. L., and R. A. Bagnold. 1963. Littoral processes, in The Sea, Hill, M. N., Vol. 3, Wiley, New York, 529-533.

Katayama, H., and Y. Goda. 2002. Beach changes due to suspended sediment picked up by random breaking waves, Proc. 28th ICCE, 2767-2779.

Komar, P. D., and D. L. Inman. 1970. Longshore sand transport on beaches, J. Geophys. Res., Vol. 75, 5914-5927.http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/JC075i030p05914

Mase, H. 2001. Multidirectional random wave transformation model based on energy balance equation, Coastal Eng. J., JSCE, Vol. 43, No. 4, 317-337.

Ozasa, H., and A. H. Brampton. 1980. Model for predicting the shoreline evolution of beaches backed by seawalls, Coastal Eng., Vol. 4, 47-64.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(80)90005-8

Serizawa, M., T. Uda, T. San-nami, and K. Furuike. 2003. Prediction of depth changes on x-y meshes by expanding contour-line change model, Ann. J. Coastal Eng. JSCE, 50, 476-480. (in Japanese)http://dx.doi.org/10.2208/proce1989.50.476

Serizawa, M., T. Uda, T. San-nami, and K. Furuike. 2006. Three-dimensional model for predicting beach changes based on Bagnold's concept, Proc. 30th ICCE, 3155-3167.

Serizawa, M., and T. Uda. 2011. Prediction of formation of sand spit on coast with sudden change using improved BG model, Coastal Sediments '11, 1907-1919.

Uda, T., and K. Yamamoto. 1991. Spit formation in lake and bay, Coastal Sediments '91, Vol. 2, 1651- 1665.

van den Berg, N., A. Falqués, and F. Ribasz. 2011. Long-term evolution of nourished beaches under high angle wave conditions, J. Marine Systems, Vol. 88, Issue. 1, 102-112.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jmarsys.2011.02.018

Zenkovich, V. P. 1967. Processes of Coastal Development, Interscience Publishers, New York, 751 pp.

Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.