Sofia Caires, Marcel R.A. Van Gent


Several alternatives to the Rayleigh distribution have been proposed for describing individual wave heights in regions where depth-induced wave breaking occurs. The most widely used of these is the so-called Battjes and Groenendijk distribution. This distribution has been derived and validated in a context of a shallow water foreshore waves propagating over a gently sloping shallow region towards the shore. Its validity for waves propagating in regions with
shallow flat bottoms is investigated here. It is concluded that the distribution on average underestimates (outside its range of validity) high wave height measurements in shallow flat bottoms by as much as 15%.


Wave height distribution; flat bottoms; depth limited; flume data; field data; waves; shallow water

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DOI: https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.waves.15