MODELLING WAVE TRANSFORMATION ACROSS A FRINGING REEF USING SWASH
ICCE 2012 Cover Image
PDF

Keywords

fringing reefs
wave breaking
bottom friction
infragravity waves
runup
SWASH

How to Cite

Zijlema, M. (2012). MODELLING WAVE TRANSFORMATION ACROSS A FRINGING REEF USING SWASH. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(33), currents.26. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.currents.26

Abstract

This paper presents the application of the open source non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to wave propagation over a fringing reef, and the results are discussed and compared with observations obtained from a laboratory experiment subjected to various incident wave conditions. This study focus not only on wave breaking, bottom friction, and wave-induced setup and runup, but also on the generation and propagation of infragravity waves beyond the reef crest. Present simulations demonstrate the overall predictive capabilities of the model for a typical coral reef with steep slopes and extended reef flats.
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.currents.26
PDF

References

Demirbilek, Z., O.G. Nwogu, and D.L. Ward. 2007. Laboratory study of wind effect on runup over fringing reefs, Report 1: data report, U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Vicksburg, Mississipi, Rep. No. ERDC/CHL-TR-07-4.

Filipot, J.-F., and K.F. Cheung. 2012. Spectral wave modeling in fringing reef environments, Coastal Engineering, 67, 67-79.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.04.005">http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.04.005

Massel, S.R., and M.R. Gourlay. 2000. On the modelling of wave breaking and set-up on coral reefs, Coastal Engineering, 39, 1-27.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00052-6">http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00052-6

Monismith, S. G. 2007. Hydrodynamics of coral reefs, Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics, 39, 35-55.http://dx.doi.org/10.1146/annurev.fluid.38.050304.092125">http://dx.doi.org/10.1146/annurev.fluid.38.050304.092125

Nwogu, O., and Z. Demirbilek. 2010. Infragravity wave motions and runup over shallow fringing reefs, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 136, 295-305.http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000050">http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000050

Peregrine, D.H. 1983. Breaking waves on beaches, Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics, 15, 149-178.http://dx.doi.org/10.1146/annurev.fl.15.010183.001053">http://dx.doi.org/10.1146/annurev.fl.15.010183.001053

Rijnsdorp, D.P., P.B. Smit, and M. Zijlema. 2012. Non-hydrostatic modelling of infragravity waves using SWASH. Proceedings of 33 rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, this volume.

Roeber, V., and K.F. Cheung. 2012. Boussinesq-type model for energetic breaking waves in fringing reef environments, Coastal Engineering, 70, 1-20.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.06.001">http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.06.001

Sheremet, A., J.M. Kaihatu, S.-F. Su, E.R. Smith, and J.M. Smith. 2011. Modeling of nonlinear wave propagation over fringing reefs, Coastal Engineering, 58, 1125-1137.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.06.007">http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.06.007

Skotner, C., and C.J. Apelt. 1999. Application of a Boussinesq model for the computation of breaking waves. Part 2: Wave-induced setdown and setup on a submerged coral reef, Ocean Engineering, 26, 927-947.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0029-8018(98)00062-6">http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0029-8018(98)00062-6

Smit, P.B., M. Zijlema, and G.S. Stelling. 2012. Depth-induced wave breaking in a non-hydrostatic, near-shore wave model, Coastal Engineering, submitted.

Stelling, G.S., and S.P.A. Duinmeijer. 2003. A staggered conservative scheme for every Froude number in rapidly varied shallow water flows, International Journal of Numerical Methods in Fluids, 43, 1329-1354.http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/fld.537">http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/fld.537

Stelling, G., and M. Zijlema. 2003. An accurate and efficient finite-difference algorithm for nonhydrostatic free-surface flow with application to wave propagation, International Journal of Numerical Methods in Fluids, 43, 1-23.http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/fld.595">http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/fld.595

Wesseling, P. 2001. Principles of Computational Fluid Dynamics, Springer-Verlag, Berlin, 644 pp.http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-05146-3">http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-05146-3

Zijlema, M., and G.S. Stelling. 2005. Further experiences with computing non-hydrostatic free-surface flows involving water waves, International Journal of Numerical Methods in Fluids, 48, 169-197.http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/fld.821">http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/fld.821

Zijlema, M., and G.S. Stelling. 2008. Efficient computation of surf zone waves using the nonlinear shallow water equations with non-hydrostatic pressure, Coastal Engineering, 55, 780-790.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.02.020">http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.02.020

Zijlema, M., G. Stelling, and P. Smit. 2011. SWASH: An operational public domain code for simulating wave fields and rapidly varied flows in coastal waters, Coastal Engineering, 58, 992-1012.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.05.015">http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.05.015

Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.