RANDOM WAVE MODELLING APPROACH INCLUDED IN A BEACH DEFORMATION MODEL

Ioan Nistor; Tomoya Shibayama

doi:10.9753/icce.v26.%p

No. 26 (1998), Conference Proceedings

No. 26 (1998)

RANDOM WAVE MODELLING APPROACH INCLUDED IN A BEACH DEFORMATION MODEL

Conference Proceedings

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v26.%25p

Published 1998-01-29

Ioan Nistor⁺⁻
Tomoya Shibayama⁺⁻

Ioan Nistor

Dept. of Civil Engineering, Yokohama National University

Tomoya Shibayama

Dept. of Civil Engineering, Yokohama National University

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Keywords

random wave
wave modelling
beach deformation
deformation model

How to Cite

Nistor, I., & Shibayama, T. (1998). RANDOM WAVE MODELLING APPROACH INCLUDED IN A BEACH DEFORMATION MODEL. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(26). https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v26.%p

Abstract

The paper presents the results of a study dealing with the inclusion of wave randomness into a beach deformation and a sand transport model developed for the regular wave input. The effect of wave irregularity is considered by employing the significant wave characteristics method and a joint distribution of wave heights and wave periods. The theoretical framework and the practical method for obtaining the joint distribution together with its application procedure are presented. The validity of the random wave approach modelling is verified by applying it for two different models: a time-averaged beach deformation model and a time-dependent sand transport model. The time-averaged model is capable of computing the beach deformation profiles while the time-dependent turbulent sand transport model is capable of computing the total sand transport rate over the entire surf zone. The simulation results for both numerical models are compared with laboratory data in order to verify, analyze and discuss the validity of the random wave approach as presented.

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v26.%25p

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Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.

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RANDOM WAVE MODELLING APPROACH INCLUDED IN A BEACH DEFORMATION MODEL

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