SPECTRAL EVOLUTION OF DIRECTIONAL FINITE AMPLITUDE DISPERSIVE WAVE IN SHALLOW WATER

James M. Kaihatu; James T. Kirby

doi:10.9753/icce.v23.%p

No. 23 (1992), Conference Proceedings

No. 23 (1992)

SPECTRAL EVOLUTION OF DIRECTIONAL FINITE AMPLITUDE DISPERSIVE WAVE IN SHALLOW WATER

Conference Proceedings

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v23.%25p

Published 1992-01-29

James M. Kaihatu⁺⁻
James T. Kirby⁺⁻

James M. Kaihatu

Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware

James T. Kirby

Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware

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Keywords

shallow water
spectral evolution
directional finite amplitude dispersive waves
finite amplitude

How to Cite

Kaihatu, J. M., & Kirby, J. T. (1992). SPECTRAL EVOLUTION OF DIRECTIONAL FINITE AMPLITUDE DISPERSIVE WAVE IN SHALLOW WATER. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(23). https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v23.%p

Abstract

Two different aspects of nearshore wave modelling are discussed. The first section details a model valid in deeper water than the usual shallow water wave models. We derive a mild-slope equation in which nonlinearity is retained to second order in e and dispersion is retained to all orders. The resulting parabolic model is then simplified for expedient calculation. This simplified model is compared to the data of Whalin (1971) with favorable results. The second section concerns the role of vector-sum interactions as compared to colinear, near-resonant interactions. We use the angular spectrum model of Kirby (1990) to determine which sort of interaction is dominant in the nearshore wavefield. A steady wave solution of the model and a case of unsteady wave evolution were investigated. Two simplified data sets with different amounts of directional spread were then run through the model. All three tests indicate that vector-sum interactions contribute significantly to wave field evolution.

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v23.%25p

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Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.

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SPECTRAL EVOLUTION OF DIRECTIONAL FINITE AMPLITUDE DISPERSIVE WAVE IN SHALLOW WATER

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