BREAKING WAVES PROPAGATING OVER A SHOAL
PDF

Keywords

shoal
breaking waves
wave propagation

How to Cite

Battjes, J., & Beji, S. (1992). BREAKING WAVES PROPAGATING OVER A SHOAL. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(23). https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v23.%p

Abstract

Spectral evolution of breaking and nearly breaking waves propagating over a submerged trapezoidal bar has been investigated in laboratory experiments. It is found that wave breaking itself does not play a crucial role in the evolution of the spectral shape, but contributes simply by extracting energy roughly in proportion to the local spectral density. For nonbreaking waves, a Boussinesq model with improved dispersion characteristics is found to simulate the wave evolution very well. On the basis of these findings, it is suggested to combine a semi-empirical model for the overall energy dissipation with a nondissipative Boussinesq model so as to obtain a model for simulation of spectral evolution of breaking waves.
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v23.%25p
PDF
Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.