PREDICTION OF THE DIMENSIONS OF A RIP CURRENT SYSTEM ON A COAST WITH BARS

Julio Zyserman, Jorgen Fredsoe, Rolf Deigaard

Abstract


A method to determine the dimensions of rip current systems (distance between rip currents, and width, and depth of the rip channels) is presented for the case of a coast with longshore bars. The method is based on an overall sediment balance in the nearshore region. The balance is determined by application of a model for the wave-induced flow combined with a sediment transport model. The influence of the wave height, the wave period, and the direction of wave propagation, as well as of the sediment size is analyzed.

Keywords


rip current; bar; bar dimensions

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DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v22.%25p