KINEMATICS OF BREAKING WAVES IN COASTAL REGIONS
No. 21 (1988), Conference Proceedings
No. 21 (1988)

KINEMATICS OF BREAKING WAVES IN COASTAL REGIONS

Conference Proceedings
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.65
Published 1988-01-29
William J. Easson
Department of Mechanical Engineering, University of Edinburgh
Matthew W.P. Griffiths
Fluid Dynamics Unit, Department of Physics, University of Edinburgh
Clive A. Greated
Fluid Dynamics Unit, Department of Physics, University of Edinburgh
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Keywords

breaking waves
wave kinematics

How to Cite

Easson, W. J., Griffiths, M. W., & Greated, C. A. (1988). KINEMATICS OF BREAKING WAVES IN COASTAL REGIONS. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(21), 65. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.65
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Abstract

Waves breaking on various slopes in a wave flume are examined. Plunging and spilling breakers are considered. The parametric results show the consistency of the measurement and the independence of scale. A method is given for predicting the maximum breaking height for a wave of known period in a known depth. The velocity is measured to the crest of the wave and comparisions with numerical and analytical solutions demonstrate the shortcomings of many of the established methods of predicting wave kinematics.
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.65
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