ON THE TRANSFORMATION OF WAVE STATISTICS DUE TO SHOALING

E.P.D. Mansard; E.R. Funke; J.S. Readshaw; R.K. Girard

doi:10.9753/icce.v21.7

No. 21 (1988), Conference Proceedings

No. 21 (1988)

ON THE TRANSFORMATION OF WAVE STATISTICS DUE TO SHOALING

Conference Proceedings

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.7

Published 1988-01-29

E.P.D. Mansard⁺⁻
E.R. Funke⁺⁻
J.S. Readshaw⁺⁻
R.K. Girard⁺⁻

E.P.D. Mansard

Hydraulics Laboratory, National Research Council

E.R. Funke

Hydraulics Laboratory, National Research Council

J.S. Readshaw

W.F. Baird Associates Ltd.

R.K. Girard

Hydraulics Laboratory, National Research Council

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Keywords

shoaling
wave transformation
wave statistics

How to Cite

Mansard, E., Funke, E., Readshaw, J., & Girard, R. (1988). ON THE TRANSFORMATION OF WAVE STATISTICS DUE TO SHOALING. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(21), 7. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.7

Abstract

The results of a 1:40 scale physical model investigation into the shoaling process are described. The model simulated a nearly constant slope of 1:40 with wave measurements made at a depth of approximately 25 and 9 m. Two hundred individual tests were undertaken, with four offshore significant wave heights as the only test variant. The results indicate that the most severe nearshore wave conditions do not occur with the worst offshore conditions. There is evidence of a significant increase in low frequency wave energy in the nearshore zone.

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.7

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ON THE TRANSFORMATION OF WAVE STATISTICS DUE TO SHOALING

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