NUMERICAL MODEL OF BREAKING WAVE AROUND A RIVER MOUTH
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Keywords

numerical model
wave breaking
river mouth

How to Cite

Lee, J.-S., Sawaragi, T., & Deguchi, I. (1986). NUMERICAL MODEL OF BREAKING WAVE AROUND A RIVER MOUTH. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(20), 97. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.97

Abstract

Equations for wave kinematics and wave dynamics based on small amplitude wave theory have been used in the prediction of wave deformations and wave-indused currents. However, the applicability of the linear wave theory is questionable in a river mouth where forced wave breaking and strong wave-current interaction take place. A numerical model based on the non-linear dispersive wave theory has been developed, the results by this model was compared with the values of the experiments and the linear theory. Wave transformations including shoaling, wave-current interaction and wave breaking by the model showed a good agreement with the experimental result. In the prediction of wave-induced currents, the excess momentum flux (Pxx) computed by the model has more reasonable value than the radiation stress ( Sxx) calculated by the small amplitude wave theory.
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.97
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