BREAKING CRITERION ON NON-UNIFORMLY SLOPING BEACH
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Keywords

breaking criterion
breaking waves
sloping beach
non-uniform slope

How to Cite

Izumiya, T., & Isobe, M. (1986). BREAKING CRITERION ON NON-UNIFORMLY SLOPING BEACH. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(20), 25. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.25

Abstract

This paper deals with the breaker height on non-uniformly sloping beaches. A large number of experiments were carried out to obtain a breaking criterion on bar and step-type beaches. Based on the experimental data, a relationship among the breaker height, water depth, and wave period is investigated for various bottom configurations. As a result, the breaker height on non-uniformly sloping beaches is found to be well predicted by substituting an equivalent bottom slope in Goda's breaker index which has been obtained for uniformly sloping beaches. The equivalent bottom slope is defined as the mean slope in the distance of 5hg offshoreward from a breaking point, where hg denotes the water depth at the breaking point. The method for calculating the breaker height on natural beaches is also presented.
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.25
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