MEASUREMENTS OF SURF BEAT AND SET-DOWN BENEATH WAVE GROUPS
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Keywords

surf beat
set down
wave groups
surf beat measurement
set down measurement

How to Cite

Kostense, J. (1984). MEASUREMENTS OF SURF BEAT AND SET-DOWN BENEATH WAVE GROUPS. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(19), 49. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v19.49

Abstract

A laboratory study was conducted to measure the amplitudes of long waves In shallow water as induced by wave grouping. In a 55 m long wave channel with a plane beach at the end, two primary waves of nearly equal frequency were generated. Due to a sophisticated control of the wave paddle - including second order wave generation as well as active wave absorption at the paddle face - the wave action at the difference frequency was limited to an incident forced wave, propagating at the group velocity, and a reflected free wave generated in the surf zone. For the incident forced - or bound - wave, also known as set-down, the experimental results show good agreement with the existing theory. Furthermore, the experiments confirm qualitatively a theoretical model by Symonds et al. (198 2) explaining two-dimensional surf beat as a result of the time-varying breakpoint of the incident primary waves.
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v19.49
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