BEACH RESPONSE TO VARIATIONS IN BREAKER HEIGHT

A.D. Short

Abstract


The breaker wave height required to produce a particular beach-surfzone morphology is examined for micro-tidal, medium to fine sand beaches. Waves >2.5m produce dissipative beach systems with wide surfzones and shore parallel bar/s and channel/s. Breakers between 1 and 2.5m result in rip circulation and associated rhythmic morphology (crescentic bars, rip channels, megacusps, etc). Low waves (

Keywords


beach response; breaker height; breaking waves

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DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v17.%25p