Narayana N. Panicker, Leon E. Borgman


Determination of the directional distribution of ocean surface waves is of practical importance and analytical schemes for it are developed and discussed here. Based on a generalized representation of wave properties such as surface elevation, subsurface pressure or horizontal components of water particle velocity, acceleration or wave force, two general schemes of analysis are developed. In one scheme the predictive equations for the directional distribution of both the amplitude and phase of waves are derived. Distribution of energy as a function of direction for random waves is obtained in the other scheme. Fourier series parameterization is used to represent directional spectrum. The truncation of the series dictated by data limitations introduce directional spread and negative side lobes for the estimated directional spectrum. A procedure to remove these undesirable side lobes by a non-negative smoothing function is described. The smoothing causes further directional spread. Methods for obtaining better directional resolution are discussed. Data adaptive spectral analysis techniques such as Maximum Likelihood Method and Maximum Entropy Method are suggested.


directional spectrum; direction estimates; wave spectrum

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DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v14.%25p