HORIZONTAL WATER PARTICLE VELOCITY OF FINITE AMPLITUDE WAVES

Yuichi Iwagaki; Tetsuo Sakai

doi:10.9753/icce.v12.19

No. 12 (1970), Conference Proceedings

No. 12 (1970)

HORIZONTAL WATER PARTICLE VELOCITY OF FINITE AMPLITUDE WAVES

Conference Proceedings

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v12.19

Published 1970-01-29

Yuichi Iwagaki⁺⁻
Tetsuo Sakai⁺⁻

Yuichi Iwagaki

Department of Civil Engineering Kyoto University

Tetsuo Sakai

Department of Civil Engineering Kyoto University

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Keywords

particle velocity
finite amplitude
horizontal velocity

How to Cite

Iwagaki, Y., & Sakai, T. (1970). HORIZONTAL WATER PARTICLE VELOCITY OF FINITE AMPLITUDE WAVES. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(12), 19. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v12.19

Abstract

This paper firstly describes two methods to measure vertical distribution and time variation of horizontal water particle velocity induced "by surface waves in a wave tank These two methods consist of tracing hydrogen bubbles and using hot film anemometers, respectively Secondly, the experimental results by the two methods are presented with the theoretical curves derived from the small amplitude wave theory, Stokes wave theory of 3rd order, and the hyperbolic wave theory as an approximate expression of the cnoidal wave theory Finally, based on the comparison of the experimental data with the theoretical curves, the applicability of the finite amplitude wave theories, which has been studied for the wave profile, wave velocity, wave length and wave crest height, is discussed from view point of the water particle velocity.

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v12.19

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HORIZONTAL WATER PARTICLE VELOCITY OF FINITE AMPLITUDE WAVES

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