A SIMPLE MATHEMATICAL MODEL OP WAVE MOTION ON A RUBBLE MOUND BREAKWATER FRONT
PDF

Keywords

mathematical model
breakwater design
rubble mound breakwater

How to Cite

Brandtzaeg, A., & Torum, A. (1966). A SIMPLE MATHEMATICAL MODEL OP WAVE MOTION ON A RUBBLE MOUND BREAKWATER FRONT. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(10), 56. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v10.56

Abstract

This paper is a continuation of a paper under the same title, presented at the Vlllth Conference in Mexico City, 1962, where a mathematical model was proposed, intended to give a rough idea of the order of magnitude of velocities and accelerations in the downrushmg wave on a rubble mound breakwater front. Here observations of 85 individual waves of various dimensions are presented and compared with the formulae derived from the model. Considerable scatter is evident, but it is concluded that the model does correspond roughly to the actual displacements of the water surface during downrush, and therefore may be expected to give useful indications also of velocities and accelerations. The importance of the slope of the surface is emphasized, and, within the scope of the tests, this slope seems to stand in linear relation to the wave steepness.
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v10.56
PDF
Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.