Keywords
non-saturated breaker
run-up
breaking index
run-up
breaking index
How to Cite
Le Mehaute, B. (1962). ON NON-SATURATED BREAKERS AND THE WAVE RUN-UP. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(8), 6. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v8.6
Abstract
Some theoretical results pertaining to the physical behavior of gravity waves on a sloped plane are presented. The notion of "saturated" breakers and "non-saturated" breakers which follow the breaking index curve is introduced. Criteria for different kinds of breaking and successive breaking of waves are presented. Some considerations on the wave run-up are deduced. Then a critical analysis of the method of characteristics is presented, with some possible refinements. Path curvature effect is taken into account and the problem of waves climbing on a dry bed is solved. Criteria for determining saturated and non-saturated breakers and the wave run-up by the method of characteristics are proposed.
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