DETERMINATION OF THE WAVE HEIGHT IN NATURE FROM MODEL TESTS SUPPLEMENTED BY CALCULATION
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Keywords

wave refraction
model studies
energy balance

How to Cite

Diephuis, J. G., & Gerritze, J. G. (1957). DETERMINATION OF THE WAVE HEIGHT IN NATURE FROM MODEL TESTS SUPPLEMENTED BY CALCULATION. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(6), 12. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v6.12

Abstract

This paper deals with the problem of determining the wave characteristics in shallow water from those in deep water. In general this can be done by means of a refraction calculation. If the sea bottom topography is too irregular the height of the waves can be determined by means of a small-scale refraction model. In both cases, however, some additional effects have to be taken into account, viz. the influence of the bottom friction and the influence of the wind.
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v6.12
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