THE INTERACTION BETWEEN SHORT OCEAN SWELL AND TRANSIENT LONG WAVES: DISSIPATIVE AND NONLINEAR EFFECTS
No. 33 (2012), Waves
No. 33 (2012)

THE INTERACTION BETWEEN SHORT OCEAN SWELL AND TRANSIENT LONG WAVES: DISSIPATIVE AND NONLINEAR EFFECTS

Waves
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.waves.20
Published 2012-12-14
James Kaihatu
Texas A&M University
Deirdre Devery
Texas A&M University
Richard Erwin
Texas A&M University
John Goertz
Texas A&M University
ICCE 2012 Cover Image
PDF

Keywords

long waves
tsunamis
wavelet analysis
dissipation
bispectra

How to Cite

Kaihatu, J., Devery, D., Erwin, R., & Goertz, J. (2012). THE INTERACTION BETWEEN SHORT OCEAN SWELL AND TRANSIENT LONG WAVES: DISSIPATIVE AND NONLINEAR EFFECTS. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(33), waves.20. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.waves.20
ACM ACS APA ABNT Chicago Harvard IEEE MLA Turabian Vancouver

Download Citation

Endnote/Zotero/Mendeley (RIS) BibTeX

Abstract

The dissipation and nonlinear effects of random swell interaction with transient long waves are studied. Results from a laboratory experiment in which random swell was generated both with and without a co-existing transient long wave are analyzed. An instantaneous dissipation mechanism for estimating both instantaneous and bulk dissipation from data is used to determine the characteristics of dissipation for both cases. Fourier analysis of the free surface measurements and dissipation estimates reveals that the presence of the transient long wave does not have an appreciable impact on the known dissipation characteristics of random swell. However, the use of wavelet analysis, centered on the long wave in the time series, shows that the dissipation characteristics of the combined short-long wave signals deviate considerably from that of swell alone, indicating that smearing of the long wave signal by the Fourier analysis is sufficiently strong to affect dissipation estimates. A wavelet-based bispectral algorithm is used to determine the nonlinear wave-wave coupling in both swell and combined swell-long wave signals; the results indicate that there can be broader ranges of frequencies in which nonlinear coupling is present for the case of the combined short-long wave signal.
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.waves.20
PDF

References

Agnon, Y., Sheremet, A., Gonsalves, J., and Stiassnie, M., 1993. Nonlinear evolution of a unidirectional shoaling wave ï¬eld. Coastal Engineering, 20, 29-58.

Battjes, J.A., and Janssen, J.P.F.M., 1978. Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves. Proceedings of the 14th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Hamburg, Germany, ASCE, 466-480.

Booij, N., Ris, R.C., and Holthuijsen, L.H., 1999. A third-generation wave model for coastal regions, 1. Model description and validation. Journal of Geophysical Research, 104, 7649-7666.

Chen, Y., Guza, R.T., and Elgar, S., 1997. Modeling spectra of breaking surface waves in shallow water. Journal of Geophysical Research, 102, 25035-25046.

Chui, C., 1992. An Introduction to Wavelets. Academic Press, New York.

Constantin, A., and Johnson, R.S., 2008. Propagation of very long water waves, with vorticity, over variable water depth, with application to tsunamis. Fluid Dynamics Research, 40, 175-211.

Dong, G., Ma, Y., Perlin, M., Ma, X., Yu, B., and Xu, J., 2008. Experimental study of wave-wave nonlinear interactions using the wavelet-based bicoherence. Coastal Engineering, 55, 741-752.

Huang, N.E., Shen, Z., Long, S.R., Wu, M.C., Shih, H.H., Zheng, Q., Yen, N.-C., Tung, C.-C., and Liu,

H.H., 1998. The empirical mode decomposition and the Hilbert spectrum for nonlinear and nonstationary time series analysis. Proceedings of the Royal Society of London, Ser. A., 454, 903-995.

Janssen, T.T., and Battjes, J.A., 2007. A note on wave energy dissipation over steep beaches. Coastal Engineering, 54, 711-716.

Kaihatu, J.M., and Kirby, J.T., 1995. Nonlinear transformation of waves in ï¬nite water depth. Physics of Fluids, 7, 1903-1914.

Kaihatu, J.M., Veeramony, J., Edwards, K.L., and Kirby, J.T., 2007. Asymptotic behavior of frequency and wavenumber spectra of nearshore shoaling and breaking waves. Journal of Geophysical Research, 112,

Kaihatu, J.M., and El Safty, H., 2011. The interaction of tsunamis with ocean swell: an experimental study. Proceedings of the 30th International Conference on Ocean, Oshore and Arctic Engineering - OMAE2011, Rotterdam, the Netherlands.

Kirby, J.T., and Kaihatu, J.M., 1996. Structure of frequency domain models for random wave breaking. Proceedings of the 25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Orlando, FL, ASCE, 1144-1155.

Kowalik, Z., Proshutinsky, T., and Proshutinsky, A., 2006. Tide-tsunami interactions. Science of Tsunami Hazards, 242-256.

Thornton, E.B., and Guza, R.T., 1983. Transformation of wave height distribution. Journal of Geophysical Research, 88, 5925-5938.

Van Milligen, B.P., Sanchez, E., Estrada, T., Hidalgo, C., Branas, B., Carreras, B., Garcia, L., 1995. Wavelet bicoherence: a new turbulence analysis tool. Physics of Plasmas, 2, 3017-3032.

Zelt, J.A., 1991. The run-up of nonbreaking and breaking solitary waves. Coastal Engineering, 15, 205-246.

Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.