Marion Tissier, Philippe Bonneton, Gerben Ruessink, Fabien Marche, Florent Chazel, David Lannes


Recent field studies over low sloping beaches have shown that infragravity waves could dissipate a significant part of their energy in the inner surf zone. This phenomenon and the associated short- and long-wave transformations are not well-understood. In this paper, we assess the ability of the fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type model introduced in Bonneton et al. (2011) to reproduce short and long wave transformation in a case involving a strong infragravity wave dissipation close to the shoreline. This validation study, based on van Dongeren et al. (2008)’s laboratory experiments, suggests that the model is able to predict infragravity wave breaking as well as the complex interactions between short and long waves in the surf zone.


infragravity wave dissipation; fully nonlinear Bouiinesq-type model; long-wave breaking; bore merging


Ruessink, B.G., Boers, M., van Geer P.F.C., de Bakker, A.T.M., Pieterse, A., Grasso, F. and de Winter,R.C., in press. Towards a process-based model to predict dune erosion along the Dutch Wadden coast. Netherlands Journal of Geosciences.

Berthon, C. and F. Marche, 2008. A positive preserving high order VFRoe scheme for shallow water equations: A class of relaxation schemes, SIAM Journal of Scientific Computing, 30(5), 2587-2612.http://dx.doi.org/10.1137/070686147

Bonneton, P., Chazel, F., Lannes, D., Marche, F., Tissier, M., 2011. A splitting approach for the fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green-Naghdi model, Journal of Computational Physics 230, 1479-1498.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jcp.2010.11.015

van Dongeren, A., Battjes, J., Janssen, T., van Noorloos, J., Steenhauer, K., Steenbergen, G., Reniers, A., 2007. Shoaling and shoreline dissipation of low-frequency waves, Journal of Geophysical Research 112. C02011.http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2006JC003701

Guza, R.T., Thornton, E.B., 1985. Observations of surf beat, Journal of Geophysical Research 87, 483-491.http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/JC087iC01p00483

Herbers, T.H.C., Elgar, S., Guza, R., 1995. Generation and propagation of infragravity waves, Journal of Geophysical Research 100, 24863-24872.http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/95JC02680

Henderson, S.M., Guza, R.T., Elgar, S., Herbers, T.H.C., Bowen, A.J., 2006. Nonlinear generation and loss of infragravity wave energy, Journal of Geophysical Research 111, C12007.http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2006JC003539

Lannes, D., and P. Bonneton. 2009. Derivation of asymptotic two-dimensional time-dependent equations for surface water wave propagation, Physics of Fluids, 21(1).http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/1.3053183

Marche, M., P. Bonneton, P. Fabrie and N. Seguin. 2007. Evaluation of well-balanced bore-capturing schemes for 2D wetting and drying processes, Int. J. Num. Meth. Fluids, 53(5), 867-894.van Noorloos, J., 2003. Energy transfer between short wave groups and bound long waves on a plane slope, Master thesis, TU Delft, The Netherlands.

Ruju, A., Lara, J., Losada, I., 2012. Radiation stress and low-frequency energy balance within the surf zone: A numerical approach, Coastal Engineering 68, 44-55.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.05.003

Thomson, J., Elgar, S., Raubenheimer, B., Herbers, T.H.C., Guza, R.T., 2006. Tidal modulation of infragravity waves via nonlinear energy losses in the surfzone, Geophysical Research Letters 33.

Tissier, M., Marche, F., Bonneton, P., Chazel, F., Lannes, D., 2012. A new approach to handle wave breaking in fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type model, Coastal Engineering, 67, 54-66.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.04.004

Full Text: PDF

Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License.