Sten Esbjørn Kristensen, Rolf Deigaard, NIls Drønen, Jørgen Fredsoe, Stephen Luger


A simulation of the morphological development and degrade of a salient behind a shipwreck located north of Cape Town, South Africa is presented. The morphological model is based on a hybrid morphological model concept which combines a 2D coastal model for calculating sediment transport with a simplified 1D morphological evolution model for the coastline. The model concept is applied to the case study in order to show how the modelling concept may be applied to real coastlines with general bathymetric features. The results show that the model captures the overall morphological response fairly well without the need for extensive calibration which is often required by traditional 2D morphological models. This is attributed by the authors to the fact that the sediment transport description is based on a process based model that captures the most important features, while neglecting the often challenging description of the cross-shore sediment transport.


Hybrid morphological model; Breakwater; Shoreline modeling; Seli 1


Drønen, N., Kristensen, S., Taaning, M., Elfrink, B., and Deigaard, R. (2011). Long term modeling of shoreline response to coastal structures. In The Proceedings of the Coastal Sediments, Miami, Florida. World Scientific.

Hansen, H. F., Deigaard, R., and Drønen, N. (2004). A numerical hybrid model for the morphology of a barred coast with a river mouth. In Smith, J.M., editor, Proceedings of the 29th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, pages 2607–2619, Lisbon, Portugal.World Scientific.

Harris, L. B. (1993). The seaport, table bay. an archaeological and historical perspective. ECU Research Report 8, East Carolina University.

Kærgaard, K. H. (2011). Numerical modeling of shoreline undulations. PhD thesis, Technical University of Denmark.

Kristensen, S., Deigaard, R., Taaning, M., Fredsøe, J., Drønen, N., and Jensen, J. (2010). Long term morphological modelling. In Smith, J. M. and Lynett, P., editors, Proceedings of the 32nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Shanghai, China. ASCE.

Full Text: PDF

Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License.