MEASUREMENT AND MODELING OF SOLITARY WAVE INDUCED BED SHEAR STRESS OVER A ROUGH BED
ICCE 2012 Cover Image
PDF

Keywords

bed shear stress
rough bed
bed roughness
shear plate
friction factors
solitary wave

How to Cite

Seelam, J. K., & Baldock, T. E. (2012). MEASUREMENT AND MODELING OF SOLITARY WAVE INDUCED BED SHEAR STRESS OVER A ROUGH BED. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(33), waves.21. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.waves.21

Abstract

Bed shear stresses generated by solitary waves were measured using a shear cell apparatus over a rough bed in laminar and transitional flow regimes (~7600 < Re < ~60200). Modeling of bed shear stress was carried out using analytical models employing convolution integration methods forced with the free stream velocity and three eddy viscosity models. The measured wave height to water depth (h/d) ratio varied between 0.13 and 0.65; maximum near- bed velocity varied between 0.16 and 0.47 m/s and the maximum total shear stress (sum of form drag and bed shear) varied between 0.565 and 3.29 Pa. Wave friction factors estimated from the bed shear stresses at the maximum bed shear stress using both maximum and instantaneous velocities showed that there is an increase in friction factors estimated using instantaneous velocities, for non-breaking waves. Maximum positive total stress was approximately 2.2 times larger than maximum negative total stress for non-breaking waves. Modeled and measured positive total stresses are well correlated using the convolution model with an eddy viscosity model analogous to steady flow conditions (nu_t=0.45u* z1; where nu_t is eddy viscosity, u* is shear velocity and z1 is the elevation parameter related to relative roughness). The bed shear stress leads the free stream fluid velocity by approximately 30° for non-breaking waves and by 48° for breaking waves, which is under-predicted by 27% by the convolution model with above mentioned eddy viscosity model.
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.waves.21
PDF

References

Barnes, M.P., T. O'Donoghue, J.M. Alsina and T.E. Baldock. 2009. Direct bed shear stress measurements in bore-driven swash. Coastal Engineering, 56: 853-867.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.04.004

Fenton, J.D. and W.D. McKee. 1990. On calculating the lengths of water waves. Coastal Engineering, 14: 499 - 513.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(90)90032-R

Fredsøe, J. and R. Deigaard. 1992. Mechanics of coastal sediment transport. Advanced series on ocean engineering - volume 3. World Scientific, 369 pp.

Grass, A.J., R.R. Simons, R.D. Maciver, M. Mansour-Tehrani and A. Kalopedis. 1995. Shear cell for direct measurement of fluctuating bed shear stress vector in combined wave/current flow. In: P.o.X.I. Congress (Editor), Hydraulic Research and its Applications next Century - HYDRA 2000, pp. 415-420.

Guard, P.A., P. Nielsen and T.E. Baldock. 2010. Bed shear stress in unsteady flow, 32nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Shangai, China, pp. 1-8.

Ippen, A.T., G. Kulin and M.A. Raza. 1955. Damping characteristics of the solitary wave. 16, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Hydrodynamics Laboratory.

Ippen, A.T. and M.M. Mitchell. 1957. The damping of the solitary wave from boundary shear measurements. 23, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Hydrodynamics Laboratory.

Jonsson, I.G. 1966. Wave boundary layer and friction factors, Proc. 10th Coastal Engineering Conference, Tokyo, Japan, pp. 127-148.

Keulegan, G.H. 1948. Gradual damping of solitary waves. U.S. Department of Commerce, National Bureau of Standards, Res. Pap. RP 1895 40: 487-498.

Liu, P.L.F. 2006. Turbulent boundary-layer effects on transient wave propagation in shallow water. Proceedings of the Royal Society London A, 462(2075): 3481-3491.http://dx.doi.org/10.1098/rspa.2006.1743

Liu, P.L.F., Y.S. Park and E.A. Cowen. 2007. Boundary layer flow and bed shear stress under a solitary wave. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 574: 449-463.http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112006004253

Microsonic. 2005. Instruction manual. In: M. GmbH (Editor), Dortmund, Germany.

Naheer, E. 1978. The damping of solitary waves. Journal of Hydraulic Research, 16(3): 235-248.http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00221687809499619

Nielsen, P. 1992. Coastal bottom boundary layers. World Scientific, Singapore, 324 pp.

Nielsen, P. 2006. Sheet flow sediment transport under waves with acceleration skewness and boundary layer streaming. Coastal Engineering, 53(9): 749-758.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2006.03.006

Nielsen, P. 2009. Coastal and estuarine processes. Advanced series on ocean engineering. World Scientific, New York, NJ (USA), 343 pp.http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/7114

Nielsen, P. and P.A. Guard. 2010. Vertical scales and shear stresses in wave boundary layers over movable beds. 32nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Shangai, China, p.^pp. 1-8.

Riedel, H.P. 1972. Direct mesasurement of bed shear stress under waves. Ph.D Thesis Thesis, Queens University, Kingston.

Seelam, J.K. and T.E. Baldock. 2009. Direct bed shear measurements under tsunami waves and breaking tsunami wavefronts, International Conference on Coastal Dynamics 2009, Tokyo, Japan.

Seelam, J.K. and T.E. Baldock. 2011. Comparison of bed shear under non-breaking and breaking solitary waves. The International Journal of Ocean and Climate Systems, 2(4): 259-278.http://dx.doi.org/10.1260/1759-3131.2.4.259

Seelam, J.K., P.A. Guard and T.E. Baldock. 2011. Measurement and modeling of bed shear stress under solitary waves. Coastal Engineering, 58(9): 937-947.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.05.012

Shimozono, T., A. Okayasu and T. Mishima. 2010. On the bottom shear stress during long wave runup and backwash, International Conference on Coastal Engineering, pp. 1-14.

Sumer, B.M., P.M. Jensen, L.B. Soerensen, J. Fredsøe, Liu, P. L. F. and S. Carstensen. 2010. Coherent structures in wave boundary layers. Part 2. Solitary motion. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 646: 207-231.http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112009992837

Sumer, B.M., P.M. Jensen, L.B. Sorensen, J. Fredsøe and P.L.F. Liu. 2008. Turbulent solitary wave boundary layer. In: T.I.S.o.O.a.P.E. (ISOPE) (Editor), Eighteenth (2008) International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference, Vancouver, BC, Canada, pp. 775-781.

Suntoyo and H. Tanaka. 2009. Numerical modeling of boundary layer flows for a solitary wave.

Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.