RANDOM WAVE MODELLING APPROACH INCLUDED IN A BEACH DEFORMATION MODEL

Ioan Nistor, Tomoya Shibayama

Abstract


The paper presents the results of a study dealing with the inclusion of wave randomness into a beach deformation and a sand transport model developed for the regular wave input. The effect of wave irregularity is considered by employing the significant wave characteristics method and a joint distribution of wave heights and wave periods. The theoretical framework and the practical method for obtaining the joint distribution together with its application procedure are presented. The validity of the random wave approach modelling is verified by applying it for two different models: a time-averaged beach deformation model and a time-dependent sand transport model. The time-averaged model is capable of computing the beach deformation profiles while the time-dependent turbulent sand transport model is capable of computing the total sand transport rate over the entire surf zone. The simulation results for both numerical models are compared with laboratory data in order to verify, analyze and discuss the validity of the random wave approach as presented.

Keywords


random wave; wave modelling; beach deformation; deformation model

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