2DH NON-LINEAR DISPERSIVE WAVE MODELLING AND SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN THE NEARSHORE ZONE

Theofanis V. Karambas

Abstract


A 2D-horizontal sediment transport energetics model is developed in this work for the evaluation of the wave-induced sediment transport. The time dependent energy equation is incorporated into a nonlinear dispersive wave model in order to simulate breaking wave propagation in the surf zone. Total immersed weight transport is related, through an energetics approach, to the total dissipated fluid power. Both the dissipation due to bed friction and, inside the surf zone, due to the wave breaking are considered. The methodology is applied to predict the longshore transport rate and to simulate the coastline evolution in beach nourishment scenario assuming a trapezoidal beachfill.

Keywords


dispersive waves; wave modeling; sediment transport; nearshore zone; 2DH transport

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