Mark D. Orzech, Nobuhisa Kobayashi


The results of two sediment transport models based ore the sheet flow approach and the energetics approach are compared with experimental data of random waves over fine sand beaches in equilibrium in a wave flume. Two tests were conducted with a terraced profile (test 1) and a barred profile (test 2). The energetics-based model predicts the equilibrium profile better than the sheet flow model for both tests. However, the energetics model predicts offshore sediment transport and bar migration, whereas the sheet flow model predicts onshore sediment transport and bar migration. These models cannot predict zero net sediment transport rate on these equilibrium profiles with negligible profile changes, whereas the standard equilibrium profile cannot explain the existence of the terrace and bar.


barred beach; equilibrium terraced beach

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