SEASONAL SHORELINE VARIATIONS BY CROSS-SHORE TRANSPORT IN A ONE-LINE MODEL UNDER RANDOM WAVES

Hans Hanson, Magnus Larson

Abstract


An algorithm for representing seasonal variations in shoreline position as caused by on-offshore sediment transport in a one-line model is presented. The study was based on an analysis of an 11-year long time series of waves and shoreline location obtained at Duck, North Carolina. Two different approaches were used: one was based on wave steepness and dimensionlessfa.il speed and the other on ratio of the maximum near-bottom orbital velocity to the critical velocity required to initiate sediment movement. Both applications showed that it is possible to reproduce the overall spatial and temporal behavior of seasonal cross-shore transport related shoreline variation using two simple one-line model compatible approaches. Preliminary calculations show that the method may be used for analyzing the seasonal behavior of a beach. At the same time, the impact of individual storms are not represented to any significant degree.

Keywords


seasonal variations; random waves; ONE-LINE; crossshore transport; transport model

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