OBSERVATION AND SIMULATION OF LOW-FREQUENCY WAVES ON TWO NATURAL BEACHES

Satoshi Nakamura, Nicholas Dodd

Abstract


Field observations of low-frequency wave on natural beaches are carried out. The ratio of the wave height of low-frequency wave near the shoreline to the wind wave height at the offshore has positive correlation with the surf similarity parameter. Using the field data, a validation of a numerical model was made. The model includes basic mechanisms of low-frequency wave generation that low-frequency wave increases with shoaling of wind waves groups, they are released from wave groups due to wave breaking and wind wave period becomes longer due to run-up to the beach. The model results tend to be excessively computed against field data.

Keywords


natural beach; low frequency waves; wave observation; wave simulation

Full Text: PDF

Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License.