DEPTH INVERSION FOR NONLINEAR WAVES SHOALING OVER A BARRED-BEACH

Stephan T. Grilli, Jesper Skourup

Abstract


Characteristics of periodic wave shoaling over a barred-beach are calculated in a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank. Variations of wave elevation, slopes, height, asymmetry, and celerity are discussed. Over and beyond the bar, classical highly nonlinear decomposition phenomena occur in a modulation region (MR); in shallower water, shoaling reoccurs. Depth inversion algorithms developed and calibrated for mild slopes are applied to the barred-beach. Expectedly, errors on depth prediction occur in the MR; suggestions for improvements are made.

Keywords


barred beach; depth inversion; nonlinear waves; shoaling

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