NEARSHORE WAVE DYNAMICS SIMULATED BY BOUSSINESQ TYPE MODELS

Ole R. Sorensen, Per A. Madsen, Hemming A. Schaffer

Abstract


This paper presents a numerical study of nearshore wave dynamics including the surf zone. Two different time-domain Boussinesq type formulations are applied for this purpose. The first model incoporates Pade [2,2] dispersion characteristics and lowest order nonlinearity. The second and more sophisticated model incorporates Pade [4,4] characteristics and higher-order nonlinearity in the dispersive terms. The models are validated on the shoaling and breaking of regular and irregular waves with and without an ambient current.

Keywords


wave dynamics; Boussinesq model; wave simulation

Full Text: PDF

Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License.