SHEAR WAVES OVER LONGSHORE NONUNIFORM BARRED BEACHES
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Keywords

barred beach
nonuniform beach
longshore nonuniformity
shear waves

How to Cite

Sancho, F., & Svendsen, I. (1998). SHEAR WAVES OVER LONGSHORE NONUNIFORM BARRED BEACHES. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(26). https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v26.%p

Abstract

In the present paper we address the far-infragravity motion (0.001-0.01 Hz) associated with shear (or vorticity) waves over a fixed-bed, longshore nonuniform beach. The model equations are simplified forms of the fully nonlinear, depth-integrated, wave-averaged Reynolds equations, which are solved by the SHORECIRC numerical model. The currents are forced by stationary, monochromatic, incident short waves. The formation of flow instabilities depends on physical model parameters (e.g., bottom friction), the incident wave field, and the beach topography. The latter two effects are analysed here in the prediction of shear waves and unsteady rip-currents.
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v26.%25p
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