SHEAR WAVES OVER LONGSHORE NONUNIFORM BARRED BEACHES

F.E. Sancho, I.A. Svendsen

Abstract


In the present paper we address the far-infragravity motion (0.001-0.01 Hz) associated with shear (or vorticity) waves over a fixed-bed, longshore nonuniform beach. The model equations are simplified forms of the fully nonlinear, depth-integrated, wave-averaged Reynolds equations, which are solved by the SHORECIRC numerical model. The currents are forced by stationary, monochromatic, incident short waves. The formation of flow instabilities depends on physical model parameters (e.g., bottom friction), the incident wave field, and the beach topography. The latter two effects are analysed here in the prediction of shear waves and unsteady rip-currents.

Keywords


barred beach; nonuniform beach; longshore nonuniformity; shear waves

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