NONLINEAR DISTRIBUTION OF NEARSHORE FREE SURFACE AND VELOCITY

Nobuhito Mori, Nobuhisa Kobayashi

Abstract


The Edgeworth expansion with the measured skewness and kurtosis is shown to be capable to describe the measured nonlinear distributions of the surface elevation and horizontal velocity in the shoaling and surf zones. The moments involved in the energetics-based model are expressed in terms of the skewness and kurtosis and shown to be in agreement with available data. Stokes wave theory is applied to obtain a relationship between skewness and kurtosis. The relationship is adjusted empirically because of the limitation of Stokes wave theory in the shoaling and surf zones. The relative simple relationship for the higher moments obtained here may be applied for cross-shore sediment transport analysis.

Keywords


nonlinear distribution; velocity; Edgeworth expansion

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