NONLINEAR DISTRIBUTION OF NEARSHORE FREE SURFACE AND VELOCITY

Nobuhito Mori; Nobuhisa Kobayashi

doi:10.9753/icce.v26.%p

No. 26 (1998), Conference Proceedings

No. 26 (1998)

NONLINEAR DISTRIBUTION OF NEARSHORE FREE SURFACE AND VELOCITY

Conference Proceedings

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v26.%25p

Published 1998-01-29

Nobuhito Mori⁺⁻
Nobuhisa Kobayashi⁺⁻

Nobuhito Mori

Hydraulics Dept., Abiko Research Laboratory, Central Research Institute of Electric Power Industry(CRIEPI)

Nobuhisa Kobayashi

Center for Applied Coastal Research, University of Delaware

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Keywords

nonlinear distribution
velocity
Edgeworth expansion

How to Cite

Mori, N., & Kobayashi, N. (1998). NONLINEAR DISTRIBUTION OF NEARSHORE FREE SURFACE AND VELOCITY. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(26). https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v26.%p

Abstract

The Edgeworth expansion with the measured skewness and kurtosis is shown to be capable to describe the measured nonlinear distributions of the surface elevation and horizontal velocity in the shoaling and surf zones. The moments involved in the energetics-based model are expressed in terms of the skewness and kurtosis and shown to be in agreement with available data. Stokes wave theory is applied to obtain a relationship between skewness and kurtosis. The relationship is adjusted empirically because of the limitation of Stokes wave theory in the shoaling and surf zones. The relative simple relationship for the higher moments obtained here may be applied for cross-shore sediment transport analysis.

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v26.%25p

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Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.

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NONLINEAR DISTRIBUTION OF NEARSHORE FREE SURFACE AND VELOCITY

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