WAVE TRANSFORMATION NEAR A QUASI-1D COAST

J.H. Andorka Gal, L.H. Holthuijsen, J.C.M. de Jong, A.T.M.M. Kieftenburg

Abstract


Two sets of observations of wave transformation near two quasi one-dimensional coasts, from deep water (22 m) to shallow water (0.5 m) have been simulated with the third-generation spectral wave model SWAN. The first set of observations contains wind waves that are generated by a local storm off the North Sea coast of the Netherlands. The second set contains a mix of swell and local wind waves at the Pacific coast of Japan. Repeated computations without triad wave-wave interactions show that the inclusion of this process in the model is essential. A f ^dependency of the depth-induced dissipation (rather than the conventional frequency independence in SWAN), causes too much energy dissipation in the high frequencies, shifting the mean frequency to too low values.

Keywords


wave transformation; quasi-1D coast

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