WAVE CREST INTERACTION IN WATER OF INTERMEDIATE DEPTH

C.C. Bird, D.H. Peregrine

Abstract


Numerical computations using a fully nonlinear potential flow solver are carried out on water of intermediate depth. Properties of single and multiple wave groups are examined on horizontal and sloping beaches. Comparisons are made with linear and weakly nonlinear theories. An important result is that the increase in wave amplitude due to wave shoaling is likely to be much less than the linear theory result for short steep wave groups because of the tendency for the group to spread.

Keywords


intermediate depth; wave crest; numerical computation

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