THE MODELLING OF A SPILLING BREAKER: STRONG TURBULENCE AT A FREE SURFACE

M. Brocchini, D.H. Peregrine

Abstract


A brief review is given of the initial development of a model for the turbulence generated by a spilling breaker riding on an unsteady wave. The turbulent volume of water in a spiller is modelled as a thin layer. The basis for such a model comes from the analysis of the interaction between an air-water interface with patche of turbulence. Hence, the behaviour of a free surface which is affected by strong turbulence is being studied. We summarise some of the salient points of our work. These include a derivation of averaged boundary conditions which include mass and momentum flows in the surface layer and the transfer to the bulk liquid. A brief account is also given of the type of equations needed to represent the motion of the front edge of the breaker. Illustration of the method is only given in terms of the equations derived by integration from the equation of mass conservation. Finally, there is description of the various free surface regimes that occur and need to be considered in order to determine suitable closures for the averaged terms.

Keywords


free surface; spilling breaker; turbulence

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