Albert Falques, Amadeu Montoto, Vicente Iranzo


An initially plane beach is considered with waves incoming obliquely. For this basic steady state the Longuet-Higgins solution is used to give set-up and longshore current. The beach is assumed to be erodible. Then, a stability analysis is performed considering infinitesimal disturbances in the current, the free surface and the sea bottom. The basic undisturbed state is found to be unstable giving rise to topographic features similar to oblique or transverse bars and to a meandering in the longshore current. Some comparison with the erlier work by Christensen et al., 1994, is made.


coastal morphology; coastal instability

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