WAVE ON PEBBLE BEACH AND DEFORMATION OF PEBBLE BEACH

Ichiro Deguchi, Masanobu Ono, Toru Sawaragi

Abstract


Hydraulic function of pebble are investigated by carrying out 2-D experiments in laboratory. Numerical model for predicting wave height and wave run-up are developed by applying a Boussinesq type equation and a non-linear unsteady Darcy's law for the fluid motion on the pebble beach and in the pebble layer. The applicability of the model are examined using experimental results. Deformation of pebble beach are also measured in the field and laboratory to investigate the applicability of Dean's profile and to examine the shoreline change by a single-line theory.

Keywords


pebble beach; beach deformation

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