SIMULATION OF COASTAL PROFILE DEVELOPMENT USING A BOUSSINESQ WAVE MODEL

K.A. Rakha, R. Deigaard, P.A. Madsen, I. Broker, J.K. Ronberg

Abstract


A phase-resolving wave transformation module is combined with an intra-wave sediment transport module to calculate the on/offshore sediment transport rates. The wave module is based on the Boussinesq equations extended into the surf zone. The vertical variation of the instantaneous currents and concentrations are calculated. The net sediment transport rates are calculated, and the equation for conservation of sediment is solved to predict the beach profile evolution. The results ofthe present paper showed that the undertow contribution to the sediment transport rates dominated only at local areas even for eroding beaches, suggesting that other contributions should not be neglected.

Keywords


Boussinesq model; beach profile; wave model

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