MODELLING SAND TRANSPORT AND PROFILE EVOLUTION ON MACROTIDAL BEACHES

Paul R. Fisher, Tim J. O'Hare

Abstract


An empirical model is presented which simulates the effect of tidal translation of cross-shore sediment flux patterns, in support of a hypothesis that wave height and tidal range are the key influences in the formation of characteristic macrotidal beach profiles. The energetics-based model is based upon field observations of cross shore currents and sediment fluxes from three high-energy macrotidal (tide range>4m) locations around the U.K, chosen as representations of dissipative, intermediate and reflective environments (after Wright and Short, 1984). The observed depth-dependant flux patterns are translated across linear beach profiles, with gradients modelled from sediment characteristics (Dean 1977, Kriebel et al 1991), the evolution of characteristic macrotidal beach profiles and the development of attendant features such as break-point bars, low tide terraces, and steepened foreshores are observed.

Keywords


macrotidal beach; sediment transport; transport modeling

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