EXTREME WATER LEVELS, WAVE RUNUP AND COASTAL EROSION

P. Ruggiero, P.D. Komar, W.G. McDougal, R.A. Beach

Abstract


A probabilistic model has been developed to analyze the susceptibilities of coastal properties to wave attack. Using an empirical model for wave runup, long term data of measured tides and waves are combined with beach morphology characteristics to determine the frequency of occurrence of sea cliff and dune erosion along the Oregon coast. Extreme runup statistics have been characterized for the high energy dissipative conditions common in Oregon, and have been found to depend simply on the deep-water significant wave height. Utilizing this relationship, an extreme-value probability distribution has been constructed for a 15 year total water elevation time series, and recurrence intervals of potential erosion events are calculated. The model has been applied to several sites along the Oregon coast, and the results compare well with observations of erosional impacts.

Keywords


extreme water level; runup; erosion

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